Интересная медицинская статья - исследование на тему обвязок и типов повреждений, получаемых при серьезных скалолазных срывах.
К сожалению, на английском.
Основной тезис авторов заключается в том, что лидер при подъеме и последующем срыве более подвержен риску повреждений при ударе об скалы, нежели риску серьезных повреждений в результате собственно рывка. Рассматривается вопрос повреждений спины при использовании различных типов обвязок и на основании статистической информации делается вывод о том, что в среднем одно от другого не зависит.
Pattern of Injury After Rock-Climbing Falls Is Not Determined by Harness Type
Matthias Hohlrieder, MD; Martin Lutz, MD; Heinrich Schubert, MD; Stephan Eschertzhuber, MD; Peter Mair, MD
Objective.—Experimental data indicate that when using a sit harness alone, any major fall during rock climbing may cause life-threatening thoraco-lumbar hyperextension trauma or “head down position” during suspension. To clarify the actual influence of the type of harness on the pattern and severity of injury, accidents involving a major fall in a climbing harness were analyzed retrospectively.
Methods.—Individuals with a height of fall equal to or exceeding 5 m were identified through a search of accident and emergency records for the period from 2000 to 2004. Data concerning the circumstances of the fall and the patterns of injury were obtained from personal interviews, flight and accident reports, as well as hospital medical records.
Results.—Of a total of 113 climbers identified, 73 (64.6%) used a sit harness alone, whereas 40 (35.4%) used a body harness. Fractures and dislocations of the extremities, the shoulder, and the pelvic region were the most common injuries, while the most severe injuries occurred in the head and neck region. Although most falls were associated with mild or moderate injuries, 13 (11.5%) climbers sustained severe or critical multisystem trauma. Falls on more difficult routes were associated with less severe injury. The type of harness used did not influence the pattern or severity of injury. In particular, no evidence was found for the existence of a thoraco-lumbar hyperextension trauma.
Conclusions.—The type of harness does not influence the pattern or severity of injury, and the forces transferred via the harness do not cause a specific harness-induced pathology. We did not find any evidence that hyperextension trauma of the thoraco-lumbar region is an important mechanism of injury in climbers using a sit harness alone. Rock contact during the fall, and not the force transferred through the harness, is the major cause of significant injury in climbing accidents.
Key Words: rock climbing, fall, rope, trauma, mountaineering, harness, accident
В частности, в конце приводятся статистические таблицы. По типам травм и пр.
Избранные моменты статьи:
PS. Несмотря на то, что "есть ложь, есть наглая ложь, а есть статистика", можно поразмышлять.
PPS. Мне, честно говоря, не хватает знаний для перевода части специфической лексики из статьи...
К сожалению, на английском.
Основной тезис авторов заключается в том, что лидер при подъеме и последующем срыве более подвержен риску повреждений при ударе об скалы, нежели риску серьезных повреждений в результате собственно рывка. Рассматривается вопрос повреждений спины при использовании различных типов обвязок и на основании статистической информации делается вывод о том, что в среднем одно от другого не зависит.
Pattern of Injury After Rock-Climbing Falls Is Not Determined by Harness Type
Matthias Hohlrieder, MD; Martin Lutz, MD; Heinrich Schubert, MD; Stephan Eschertzhuber, MD; Peter Mair, MD
Objective.—Experimental data indicate that when using a sit harness alone, any major fall during rock climbing may cause life-threatening thoraco-lumbar hyperextension trauma or “head down position” during suspension. To clarify the actual influence of the type of harness on the pattern and severity of injury, accidents involving a major fall in a climbing harness were analyzed retrospectively.
Methods.—Individuals with a height of fall equal to or exceeding 5 m were identified through a search of accident and emergency records for the period from 2000 to 2004. Data concerning the circumstances of the fall and the patterns of injury were obtained from personal interviews, flight and accident reports, as well as hospital medical records.
Results.—Of a total of 113 climbers identified, 73 (64.6%) used a sit harness alone, whereas 40 (35.4%) used a body harness. Fractures and dislocations of the extremities, the shoulder, and the pelvic region were the most common injuries, while the most severe injuries occurred in the head and neck region. Although most falls were associated with mild or moderate injuries, 13 (11.5%) climbers sustained severe or critical multisystem trauma. Falls on more difficult routes were associated with less severe injury. The type of harness used did not influence the pattern or severity of injury. In particular, no evidence was found for the existence of a thoraco-lumbar hyperextension trauma.
Conclusions.—The type of harness does not influence the pattern or severity of injury, and the forces transferred via the harness do not cause a specific harness-induced pathology. We did not find any evidence that hyperextension trauma of the thoraco-lumbar region is an important mechanism of injury in climbers using a sit harness alone. Rock contact during the fall, and not the force transferred through the harness, is the major cause of significant injury in climbing accidents.
Key Words: rock climbing, fall, rope, trauma, mountaineering, harness, accident
В частности, в конце приводятся статистические таблицы. По типам травм и пр.
Избранные моменты статьи:
| Цитата |
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| As a result of the limited number of accidents studied, we cannot definitely rule out the danger of hyperextension trauma in a few selected situations, for example, when the climber carries a backpack. |
| Цитата |
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| The “head down” position during suspension was exclusively seen in victims without chest harnesses. This is in accordance with experimental data reported by Magdefrau,2 indicating that only a body harness guarantees an upright position during suspension after the fall. As most of the conscious victims are able to immediately correct their “head down” position(Так ли это при подъеме с рюкзаком - Гоша Н.), this position is of particular interest in unconscious victims. An upright position during suspension might be preferable for an unconscious patient with cerebral trauma, as it prevents the marked increase in intracerebral pressure associated with a “head down” position.11 On the other hand, an upright position in an unconscious climber entails the risk of airway obstruction and asphyxia. Without immediate professional help, the prognosis for an unconscious climber with cerebral trauma suspended on a rope is probably extremely poor, no matter what type of harness is used |
PS. Несмотря на то, что "есть ложь, есть наглая ложь, а есть статистика", можно поразмышлять.
PPS. Мне, честно говоря, не хватает знаний для перевода части специфической лексики из статьи...
живучий, однако 